Sizing the controller to the array and nothing more.
The calculated figure is a floor. Undersizing clips your best days.
Sizing
Divide your array's watts by the bank's nominal voltage to get charge current, add headroom for a cold bright day, and buy a controller at or above that figure. 400 W on a 12.8 V bank is about 31 A, so a 30 A controller is marginal and a 40 A is not.
Use 12.8 V for a 12 V LiFePO4 bank and 25.6 V for a 24 V one. 400 W ÷ 12.8 V is about 31 A. This is the current the controller has to pass.
Panels exceed their rated output when they are cold and the light is strong. A controller sized exactly to the calculation will clip or shut down at the moment it is producing most. This figure is a floor, so buy at or above it.
Work this out from your panels in series, not in parallel, and use open-circuit voltage on a cold morning rather than the rated operating voltage. Exceeding the controller's PV input limit destroys it immediately.
Check absorption, float or storage settings against the exact battery manual. Some lithium manufacturers specify a float voltage. Disable equalisation and inappropriate temperature compensation, and confirm BMS and low-temperature charging controls.
Bluetooth or a display is worth paying for here. A controller you can read is a controller you will notice failing, and solar failures are silent until the bank is flat.
Sizing the controller to the array and nothing more.
The calculated figure is a floor. Undersizing clips your best days.
Using rated panel voltage for the input limit.
Use open-circuit voltage at the coldest temperature you will see.
More on sizing
Take the load estimate, charging sources and cable runs to a qualified marine electrician. Our installation guide helps you ask about isolation, over-current protection, ventilation and compliance before work begins.