Buying the biggest DC-DC charger in the budget.
Oversizing is the failure mode. The number is a ceiling, so round down.
Sizing
Take the smaller of a quarter of your bank's capacity and half your alternator's rating, then round down to a charger you can buy. A 300 Ah bank behind a 90 A alternator gives min(75, 45) = 45, so a 40 A charger.
This is the ceiling the cells should be asked to accept from an engine. A 300 Ah bank gives 75 A. Charging harder than this shortens cell life without shortening the charge much.
This is what the alternator can sustain without cooking. A 90 A alternator gives 45 A. Alternators are rated for short bursts with airflow, not for hours at full output feeding a bank that keeps asking.
Whichever number is lower is your ceiling. In the example above, 45 A. This is a maximum, not a target — a bigger charger is the exact failure this protects against, not a safer choice.
Common sizes are 18, 25, 30, 40, 50 and 60 A. Round down, never up. From a 45 A ceiling you buy a 40 A charger.
A badge figure is often a cold, high-rpm bench number. If the alternator is old, small-case or poorly ventilated, treat its sustained output as lower and size down accordingly.
Past roughly 120 A of alternator output, DC-DC chargers get expensive and start needing to be paralleled. An externally regulated, temperature-sensed alternator specified for lithium becomes the better path.
Buying the biggest DC-DC charger in the budget.
Oversizing is the failure mode. The number is a ceiling, so round down.
Sizing only from the bank and ignoring the alternator.
The alternator is usually the binding constraint on older boats.
More on sizing
Take the load estimate, charging sources and cable runs to a qualified marine electrician. Our installation guide helps you ask about isolation, over-current protection, ventilation and compliance before work begins.