Matching the old bank's amp-hours case for case.
Size on usable capacity. The lithium bank is typically smaller.
Installing
Size the new bank on usable capacity rather than matching the old label figure, fix the charging path before connecting anything, and replace the fusing. A straight case-for-case swap is the most common way to make this go wrong.
You only ever used about half your AGM bank. A 400 Ah AGM bank delivered roughly 200 Ah usable, which is about 250 Ah of lithium. Matching 400 Ah of lithium buys capacity you will never cycle.
An empty LiFePO4 bank will accept everything an alternator can produce and keep asking. Fit a DC-DC charger sized to the smaller of a quarter of the bank and half the alternator before the bank goes in, not after.
A lead-acid charger's absorption and float voltages are wrong for LiFePO4, and indefinite float holds the bank where it ages fastest. If it has no lithium profile, it is replaced, not reprogrammed.
A suitable charge profile follows the exact battery manual, including any permitted float setting. Disable equalisation unless explicitly allowed; a flooded lead-acid equalisation cycle can exceed lithium voltage limits.
Fit a Class-T fuse, or equivalent interrupt rating, at each pack's positive terminal. The existing ANL or MRBF fuse was chosen for a bank that could not deliver these fault currents.
LiFePO4's voltage curve is flat across most of its range, so voltage tells you almost nothing about state of charge. A shunt counting amp-hours in and out is the only useful gauge.
The two chemistries have different charge profiles and different internal resistance. Paralleled, the lithium bank supplies most of the load and the lead bank rarely charges properly.
Matching the old bank's amp-hours case for case.
Size on usable capacity. The lithium bank is typically smaller.
Keeping the old bank in parallel to save it.
Mixing chemistries degrades both. Keep lead only as a separate, isolated cranking battery.
More on installing
Take the load estimate, charging sources and cable runs to a qualified marine electrician. Our installation guide helps you ask about isolation, over-current protection, ventilation and compliance before work begins.