Comparing quotes on total amp-hours.
Compare on dollars per usable kilowatt-hour, which is chemistry- and voltage-neutral.
Planning
Budget the bank, then add the charging and protection hardware, which on most boats runs between a third and a half of the battery cost again, then add labour. Compare quotes on dollars per usable kilowatt-hour, not on label capacity.
Size the bank from your daily draw and your nights at anchor, remembering that you cycle lithium to 80%. That gives the amp-hours you are actually buying.
This is the only figure that compares a 12 V case against a 24 V one honestly. Dollars per amp-hour misrepresents every 24 V battery on the market, because an amp-hour at 25.6 V is twice the energy of one at 12.8 V.
A DC-DC charger sized to your alternator, an MPPT controller with a true lithium profile if you have solar, and a mains charger that will not float a lithium bank indefinitely.
A Class-T fuse at each pack's positive terminal, cable sized for the currents the new system can pass, and a shunt-based monitor. These are not accessories on a lithium bank.
A quote that includes commissioning — charge voltages set, monitor calibrated, a documented wiring diagram — is worth more than one that ends when the cable is landed.
Old cable runs, a battery box that will not take the new footprint, and a mains charger with no lithium profile are the three surprises that turn up most often once the panels come off.
Comparing quotes on total amp-hours.
Compare on dollars per usable kilowatt-hour, which is chemistry- and voltage-neutral.
More on planning
Take the load estimate, charging sources and cable runs to a qualified marine electrician. Our installation guide helps you ask about isolation, over-current protection, ventilation and compliance before work begins.